(machine translated in 2018)
Last year was for me a bad surf year. It began on 27 april 2015 (almost a year ago), with a collision on a buoy: 3 broken ribs. Restoring my ribs lasted long, only in september could I turn some surfing. In the meantime, I was already working with physical because I had pain in my back. Back did not want to get better, make an MRI in hospital: between-vertebral worn out (does not come by my accident), and all the back muscles weakened. No more surfing, strengthen muscles with intensive Physical (that was early december 2015). After 4 months, 2 x a week Physical feel my back now quite strong.
Just returned from the physical: green light! I should calm down, not too long, no unexpected movements, not jump, but I may again surf!
I have luck, tomorrow they keep a quiet breeze so I am going to try immediately.
Not in matches, I have become stronger and building condition, for it is there yet. For me really matches come on a 3rd place, first surfing, then again the waves in and jump ... Enjoy first.